I slowly and carefully restored an old Fiero (yes a 4 cyl) to its former glory because I enjoy driving a car that is not state of the art. To me, the Fiero has real character. I look forward to driving it as a treat on a nice sunny day with the windows open instead of turning on the air conditioning and feeling isolated from the road. I also appreciate the accomplishment that I brought this car back to life.

I especially enjoy the stares I get from people who don't recognize a Fiero or those who are amazed at how well it's kept. I hope more Fiero drivers look at their cars and see a piece of automotive history rather than a kick-ass piece of metal (plastic) that they can beat some other car with!!

Enjoy your car for what it is and not what you hope it could be.
John Good
Richards Landing, ON
St. Joseph Island's Only Fiero

And now for the Disclaimers. None of these articles or collections have been written by myself.
I have been clipping postings from the web for over two years and found that it is easier to use in an HTML format
I save any which sound like I will need the information in the future. By comparing different methods from various sources I hope to have a foresight into what I will run into when I tackle a problem.
Some of the ideas and methods may contradict or just SEEM to contradict another.
But knowing this BEFOREHAND greatly eases anticipation of the unknown.
I use the HAYNES, CHILTON and the HELM'S FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for my 86 GT. And with the experiences and explanations from the FieroList my GT is still running better and better all the time.

Any copyright to any of this material belongs to the writer of the material.

NO owner or moderator of any Fiero newsgroup, list, club, or web site has authorized this archive. Nor shall they be in any way responsible for the use or misuse of this information. (or me either!)

If you are the author of any of the following and wish it to be clarified,edited or deleted just email me.

If anyone wishes to add to this collection, email me.
Please, use a subject line of 'fiero web page' for any correspondence. Thank you. :^ )
peace, T
email:Tommy Evans

And of course, don't forget the original--Sketch's Online Service Guide

Q&A at the Fiero Factory
Questions and answers by Ed Parks at the Fiero Factory in Alabama.

Paul Mckibbens FieroSecrets
A Truly Great collection of Fiero Links
"a list of Fiero-related web sites, e-mail addresses, and information sources"

There are four rubber rivets - use a slim punch to push the center up inside and pull out the rivets - save them if possible. The hardest part is the mirror. Getting to those nuts on the inside are a bit difficult but possible. Remove the door trim from the front back to the door handle. Be careful but you'll probably break most of the plastic clips.

When it's loose, slide the skin up allowing the edge against the glass to slide out. You're done. Reverse the procedure to install the new one.

The outer door handle comes off with the skin - there is a rod with a spring clip that has to be undone - but you'll see it. Happy skinning your Fiero.
One other caution. You might be able to get a door skin that matches your car color. You also have to consider that if you search out the right color, it helps to keep the trim on the skin too. Try not to get the square trim if your car has rounded. There is one rivet that doesn't have to be removed if you can leave the trim on the skin being used.
-----------------
84 door panels will not fit on 85+ doors, 85+ panels will not fit on 84 doors. The panels mount differently, 85+ uses a 'lip' to hold the top edge, 84 panels used plastic pushpins.
You can swap the entire door, just not the panels.
----------------
The door panel is removed by taking off the window crank (unless it was power windows), the arm rest, and that black plastic inner door handle trim plate. There are two hidden screws (one is behind the little black Fiero emblem next to the inner door handle and the other is on the arm rest). You have to carefully pop these little square covers off with a small screwdriver.
Disconnect the locking rod from the sliding lock knob and carefully pull the pop fasteners free from around the edges of the door panel. This job is not too tough, but don't get in a hurry because it's easy to break something if you try using brute force.
Now you sticking lock/handle remove your door panel and clean & lube everything then clean and lube it again. And just before you put the door panel back on clean and lube everything one more time. It has probably been 13+ years since it was clean in there. All kidding aside the solenoids on the locks get grungy and can be cleaned with spray lube (WD40) or something similar. It is also a good time to clean all the rods, levers and window slides. It will make a world of difference.
Good Luck Dave Bonner Haysville, KS
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On my car, I found the door still rattled on the receiver pin on the latch side. I loosened the receiver pin, adjusted it up, tightened it and the rattle was gone.
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Mike had loose hinge bolts inside the door and had to tear apart the whole door, skin and interior to get to the bolts. --------
I suggest squirting some oil on the hinges all around the car at every oil change. Maybe we can keep the bushing wear down to a minimum. Kirk Madsen
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Hinge Pins and Bushings.
The procedure is pretty much the same for each car and either door. You start by knocking out the hinge pin with a long 3/16" center punch. Let the door hang on the bottom hinge, or a small jack can be used especially if your are alone. Next knock out the bushing, top and bottom. We used the same tools. Here comes the neat tool. Purchase a 6" threaded rod, 2 flat washers, and 2 nuts. Put the bottom bushings over the rod on the top of the washer and bottom nut, slip the bushing into place and if you want you can start it by tapping it into the hinge, anyway the top of the rod is going to be above the top of the hinge. You can elect to put the top bushing over the rod, put on the washer then the nut or do them one at a time then tighten down on the nuts, thus squeezing the bushings into the hinge. Take out the tool. Grease the bushing. Align the door with the jack or a buddy. Drive in the pin from the bottom. Done deal.
------------
For the door that is hard to shut, you need new hinge pins and bushings.
I recently purchased replacements at AutoZone. ORileys has the same ones, only they were about $2 each more. They are in the bubble pack "HELP!" packages. I believe by MotorMite? And are for an S10 Pick-up. Also they are about 1/4 inch longer than original, I stuck mine to a grinder but don't think you really have to. Fairly easy to replace, I used a jack to hold up the door and one at a time.
------------
The door hinge pins are no longer available, but they are a generic GM item (Chevy S-10). The Part number of the replacement is 20043351 (about $2.50 each). The retainers and bushings are still available (P/N 2042 9500, under $1 each). ------------
(Motormite brand) where they have all kind of misc. parts for all type of cars, they had S10 hinge pin & bushing kits. $5.19 each. So I purchased the only one they had P/N 38407. The pin is goldentone not black like original. Decided to stop at AutoZone down the road and check their stock. They had several at $3.99 ea. same part number. The package says it fits: 1994-82 S10 Blazer, Jimmy, Pickups 1994-85 Astro, Safari Vans.
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Dew Wipes--------------------
The dew wipes are a common problem with our cars, not at all surprising with a car that is 10-15 yrs. old.
You will need to remove the inner door panel, the rubber triangle thingys at right(top) and left(top) of the door, and the metal molding strip the holds the top of the inner door panel on.
The real problem with replacing the dew wipes is that the two center screws are not accessible since the window does not wind all the way down. Several opinions on how to go about attacking this exist, I prefer to simply pry the old strip off of the screws with a small flat blade screw driver. The dew strip is made of very very thin aluminum, and it will pry off the screws quite easily. You can then use a pair of pliers to back out the already loose screws.
Regardless of the method used to remove the old dew wipes, I would highly recommend replacement of the problem screws with some small hex head sheet metal screws for ease of removal in the future. For those who prefer alternatives, I would suggest contacting Rodney Dickman
about a tool he has recently developed for this purpose. Here's his web page ->RodneyDickman.com
The best prices I have found on these so far are from Chriswell Chevrolet:

Outer Dew wipe: (part # 20606220 & 20606221) $20.63 ea.
Inner Dew wipe: (part # 20320534 & 20320535) $14.93 ea.

Chriswell Chevrolet
503 Quince Orchard Rd.
Gaithersburg, Md. 20878

Dealer phone 301-948-0880
Parts Dept. 888-466-9101
Parts Dept. Fax 301-670-0936
Parts Dept. direct 301-590-1458

Ask for Kevin Burdette in the parts dept. and identify yourself as a Fiero list member to get the "trade" price and free shipping on any GM parts.
----------------
My son and I did a dew wipe replacement last year. With inner door panel and outer skin removed it is easy to see how to remove and replace the dew wipes. The hard part is reaching two self-tapping Phillips head screws in the center area of the dew wipes. I found the easiest way to reach them is drill 1/4" access holes through the metalwork. Replacement is then a simple exercise. Regards,Paul McKibben
---------------
I recently posted some erroneous information about removing the two "difficult" screws during the dew wipe replacement process. My leaky memory is at fault and I apologize to anyone who tried to use the information. I just looked at my donor car to refresh my memory, and here is the procedure I used to remove the two screws which are difficult to access: With the outer door skin removed:

(1) Grind off the points of the two "difficult" screws with a small grinding wheel on a Dremel tool until they are about flush with the sheet metal.

(2) Drill a 1/4" access hole for each screw from the outside, then drill out what remains of the two offending screws with a 1/8" bit (protecting the window glass from the drill bit with a scrap of sheet aluminum or similar).

(3) Replace the two difficult screws with small machine screws, lock washers, and nuts.

My memory is terrible. Sorry to be so misleading with my previous information.
Paul McKibben
----------------
Easiest way to do it is to remove inner and outer door panels, all the inner pieces you need to get to the inner wipe, cut a small 'notch' out of the door frame that's behind eat screw on the outside. These screws were self tapping, and so they have a notch in them on each side. Grab that with a pair of wire cutters and unscrew them. When you reinstall, put the screws in from the outside.
---------------
It is not necessary to remove the outer door skins, or drill any extra holes in your Fiero to replace the dew wipes. After removing the inner door panel, loosen the two stabilizer bolts on top of the door. Then remove the back and center window tracks from inside the door. They are bolted in and are easy to remove and I took the opportunity to clean and lubricate the tracks. With the window down, remove the accessible screws holding the outer wipe and remove the inner wipe retainer and inner wipe. Support the window while raising the window to the full up position. You will be able to pull it back a little in the remaining track and pull up just enough to get to the last two screws. Do not forget that the mirror attachment nuts also hold the outer wipes in place. When doing this replacement, make sure you replace the outer and inner wipes, as well as the stabilizer pads. Clean the built up dirt and grime from the bottom of the glass and say good-by to window scratches. Gene Gene
---------------
It's really not that difficult to remove the glass. I've done it several times and now can remove the glass in 10 minutes. I was a little concerned with my 87 GT when I realized there was less access to the glass than with my 84 SE, but it still wasn't too bad. My method does require the purchase of a thread insert gun and thread inserts (example NAPA #770-2875 & 1/4-20 thread inserts #770-2880).

1) Remove the interior panel in the usual way.

2) Remove the inner panel support at rear of door (for access).

Note: Carefully drive the rivet stems out of the rivets. Use a drill with a 1/4 inch drill bit and 'slowly' drill out the head (use a variable speed 3/8 drill motor). The head should pop off. If not a slight side to side movement of the drill bit should break it loose.

Don't worry too much the through hole is 1/4" so no irreparable damage should occur.

3) Remove the armrest support in the same manner, a little more access.

4) Remove the vapor barrier.

5) Position the glass and, carefully, drive the rivet stems out of the rivets holding the up-stop bumpers. Remove the up-stops. Now do the same for the two glass mounts.

With a little caution remove the glass.

Note: Watch the little a-pillar guide on the front of the glass and the two plugs in the glass. They will tend to catch on the strip as the glass is removed.
6) Replace the belt strip.

7) With a 3/8 drill bit enlarge the rivet holes. Be careful here, the tolerance range for the holes is 0. 375/0.379 Dia. Install the thread inserts.

Note: you may want to use an intermediate 5/16" drill bit. I believe I will.
8) The attachment for the up-stops and glass mounts pose a different problem. the hole in the metal washer has to be enlarged for a thread insert. Firstly, the washer has to be removed from the plastic housing, which is most likely quite brittle. I heated mine in the oven at about 250 F.

This gives the plastic a little ductility for removing the washers so as not to break the plastic.
Once off, the holes can be enlarged. I used two "vice-grips" to hold the washer. Install the thread inserts and insert the washers back into the, hopefully undamaged, plastic housing.

9) Reinstall the glass into the door 'before' re-installing the plastic components with their new nut plates.

Note: It is a little tight, but can be managed.
- Jerry Clasby Salisbury, NC
------------
Yeesh!
Just grab the end of the screws from the outside with a pair of wire cutters (don't cut the screws) and unscrew them. Replace the dew wipe, reinstall the screws from the outside edge instead of the inside.

If you want to make it easier, use a hacksaw and cut a small square piece of the metal blocking the back of the screw off.

Easier, faster and more secure than removing the factory rivets and replacing them with screws and inserts. ----------------

----------------------------------------------------
On the Flex agent. You can use a flex agent both in the K36 and clearcoat but PPG only says this is needed if you plan on painting the panels off the car and then will be installing them. This idem is really meant for the front and rear fascia. PPG tells me that the two stage system(basecoat/clearcoat) is flexible enough as is. But they did say that it would give you better flexibility by adding it. So I did on the car panels but on things like side molding you can do without to save some $.

One more thing. The primer/surfacer, basecoat, and clearcoat all use a hardener. The primer/surfacer and the clearcoat also use a reducer(thinner). You need to mix these together before you spray. Like on the info below on the K36

Mix: K36(5):K201(1):DT885(.5)

This means 5 parts K36 to 1 part K201 hardener to .5 parts DT885 Reducer

These mixing ratios would change if you plan on adding the DX814 flex agent. You can get "P" sheets(product sheets) from your paint supplier or through PPG's FAXBack service on each product. They will show you the right mixing ratio along with drying times, pot life, temp ranges...etc.

And you thought this would be easy!

-------------------------
-- Product: DX330 Use: Wax and Grease Remover

-- Product: DPX801 (Plastic Sealer) Mix: Shoot out of can Coat: 1 medium, shoot whole car to adhesion Cover Time: 30min to 24hour Sand: NO

-- Product: K36 (Primer/Surfacer) Mix: K36(5):K201(1):DT885(.5) Coat: 2-3 with 10-15min. between coats, shoot whole car Desired Thickness: 2-6mils Cover Time: 1hour to 72hours, Re-sand after 72hours before over coating Sand: 400 dry

-- Product: BDU (Base) Mix: DBU(2):DRR1170(1-2) Coat: Until Color lock-out (2-3 coats with 10-15min between coats) Cover Time: 1hour to 24hours Sand: NO!

-- Product: DCU2001 (Clear) Mix: DCU2001(2):DU7(1):DT885(1) Coat: 2-4 with 10-15min. between coats Desired Thickness: 2-6mils Sand: 2000 wet Polish: block and/or buff right after 16hours

-- E-mail me if you need any other info, Steven 84SE 85GT 87GT

-------
It ended up costing me over $1000 for all the paints, primers, hardeners, reducers, flex agents, and degreasers. This included the black paint for the trim. I bought all at a local auto paint supplier. They said I was paying what the bodyshops pay. I'm not so sure though.

Here's some numbers. All are PPG products.
DX330 Degreaser $18.65

DPX801 Plastic primer $31.95

K36 Primer/Surfacer $84.30 K201 Hardener $38.20 DX814 FlexAgent $21.45

DBU Topcoat(1995 Corvette Yellow) $124.65 (Could go as high as $250 for Reds)

DU5 Hardener $84.00 DT870 Reducer $25.60

DCU2001 Clearcoat $99.60 DRR1170 Hardener $58.90 DX814 FlexAgent $21.45

DAU single stage basecoat for all trim(black) $38.80 DAU2 Hardener $29.40 Flattening agent $22.05 DT870 Reducer (Had some from above)
--------------- Total $699.00

Then add another $100 for sandpaper, tack rags, cleanup thinner, mixing cups and lint free wipes(used with the degreaser). Oh ya 3M Perfect-It Buffing supplies
Buffing Compound $10 Polish $9 Glaze $9 Swirl-remover $10 Wax $11 Buffing Pads $50
----- Total $99
Steven "Steven W. Kovich" ----------------

If you use PPG products like DP40 primer...K200 surface/contour...and any of their Polyurethane Colors like Starthane or Durathane...you will get a tremendous "Mercedes" type paint job, without a clear coat...although you can still clear coat if you must. Materials might run $300, but they are temperature limited, so if you are going to do this...get cracking. Have Fun David Breeze

I used VHT hi-temp red paint (not the orange) and it looks great. It is a little brighter than the red on my manifolds originally, but still quite good. On the lower,middle and heads I used Krylon Hi-Temp Aluminum. It is a bright silver color, and looks fantastic, even two years later.

For more information see "How to Paint Your Car" by David H Jacobs, jr. 1991. Published by Motorbooks International Publishers and Wholesalers, P.O. Box 2, 729 Prospect Ave, Osceola Wi 54020, USA (my copy cost $7.00, but list is $14.95) They offer a free catalog by request to Box 1 at the address above.
I bought this book before putting the coupe fascia on my GT and painting the ground effects to match the body color. Very basic stuff, good for someone (me!) who had no experience. I think the most help came from the Helm's Service Manual, T.

1) Always use masking tape made for painting ( or automotive painting(3M brand)) its a little more expensive but it is made to with stand the solvents that are added to the paint and primers.

2) Try to use a brown craft paper ( similar to that used on paper grocery bags) it is thick than newspaper , and will hold up better.

3) with base coat/ clear coat applications(can't speak for all so talk to people or get a pamphlet from the company) the base coat(color coat) will dry in 45min to1.5hrs depending on the conditions(temp and humidity) you then have 24 hours to apply the clear coat before any sanding or scuffing of the base coat is needed. Or you can clearcoat it after the after applying the basecoat according to the paint manufact. specifications.

4) Since the basecoat dries so quickly, you can paint the stripes on. the basecoat will be dry enough to apply tape to the surface to mask off your design or stripes. then you can paint the stripes on and they will be sealed underneath the clearcoat.

5) When applying the basecoat and or stripes, apply just enough paint to cover the primer so that you have a even THIN layer of paint. 2 med coats or 3 light coats

6)There are 2 part Urethane primers out there which do not require the use of a sealer as does a lacquer primer would. this primer is more costly but elimates a step It uses a harder, similar to that of an enamel paint, to make a durable surface to paint on, it needs to be sanded down with 400 grit , and the paint will not absorb into it to cause such problems as sand scratch swelling. BTW the paint system mentioned above is for NAPA brand. I would recommend PPG, but I am not that familiar with that system. The people at NAPA are more than willing to help (atleast here in Buffalo) with any questions or concerns. ALSO THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TOO! CHECK THE TEMP AND HUMIDITY FOR THE DAY YOU ARE PAINTING ON, THE THINNERS AND REDUCERS FOR THE PAINT AND CLEARCOAT ARE TEMP AND HUMID. SPECIFIC

PREP

1. Start with 360 grit WSP (wet sand paper for short). When the paper is new, don't sand too hard. You just want to make the paint look dull. Also, any chips or lows should be sanded to a feather edge (run your fingers over it till it feels smooth). If you notice places that are low, you will need to either fill them with primer (if it isn't too low) or fill it with spot putty (if it is more drastic) and re-sand to a smooth, level surface. Follow procedures that come with the spot putty (some require putty being put over primer, some not, etc). Do the whole car this way. It is hard to do the door jams and rocker panels. But this is the difference between a good paint job and a cheap paint job.

2. Coat the panels with a good primer. Use a flexible primer for the nose and rear bumper and a good standard primer for the other panels (some have disagreed here, but from experience, the flexible primer doesn't crack as easy as standard primer. The nose and rear bumper panels are prone to get bumped). You don't have to do the whole car (I didn't primer the roof at all), but definitely do the nose and rear bumper. Use primer where you have done a lot of sanding (spots, edges, etc). When the car is dry after sanding, it should appear very dull. IMPORTANT: Any time you are putting paint or primer on the car, wipe off the panels with a good wax/greese remover just before painting (obviously, this doesn't mean you use this between base coats and clear, etc).

3. Go over the whole car with 400 WSP twice. The panels should feel very smooth. Prime or putty lows as necessary and re-sand.

TAPE

1. Tape up the whole car where you don't want paint applied (windows,gaskets, trim panels, etc). Use a good brand of masking tape and good paper (some use newspaper which is okay). Let me know if you need better details of taping, it is assumed that you can figure out how to do the taping well and efficiently. Remember, overspray will get everywhere! (wheel wells,under the car, etc). PAINT IMPORTANT: You need to have good conditions to start painting (follow directions). A dust free environment is the key to a good paint job and a lot less ultra fine sanding and polishing. Before painting, most spray down the floor and walls with water (water hose) very liberally to trap free floating particles (dust) that may get into the paint. As far as what gun/pressure/paint to use, ask the auto paint store, etc.

1. You need to go over the whole car with a good wax/greese remover. This is also important when priming above. If you have any oils (say from your fingers, etc) on the paint, the finished product will raise and or have orange peel texture (not good).

2. You need to follow close directions on the actual painting, which I am not 100% good at.. From what I understand, you need to shoot a coat of sealer on the panels. The wait a specified time. Then, start with the base coat with a few light coats just to get the color right and even, no more needed. Then you have to wait a specified time to shoot the clear coat. The clear is a lot harder to do. A lot of light coats to keep from having runs.Wait a specified time to cure.

TAPE REMOVAL

1. Simple, just remove what tape you have applied. Some people will wait a day before removing the tape. We waited about 3 hours. Just be careful removing the tape. Also be careful not to press your fingers, body, ect up against the paint, as it is still not yet hardened. In fact, it can take up to a year to fully harden, but after a day or so, it is hard enough to wash,drive, etc. In these stages (under a year), it is IMPORTANT not to let any bird crap or tree sap, etc on the paint as it will eat right through it.

ULTRA FINE/POLISHING

1. Starting with 1200 WSP, lightly wet sand the whole car. Go in one direction, not in a circular direction or in two 90 degree directions. Move on to 2000 WSP and do the same thing.

2. Using a good polish and an orbital buffer, lightly polish the paint as directions should state with polish.

STRIPES

Recommended to wait 1-2 weeks after fresh paint has been applied.

1. If you are doing, say, a racing stripe over the car, measure out each panel and get the stripes cut for each length (it is hard enough to handle with small pieces) with a little added to be sure. We used a vinyl striping material from a sign shop that was cut by a computer cutter.

2. I recommend using vinyl application fluid (ask the sign shop where to get some). Some people just use water with a SMALL tad amount of liquid soap.The vinyl application fluid dries much faster than the water/soap and still gives you plenty of time to move around into position.

3. With a heavy coat of application fluid, place the stripes on the panel as close to where you want it as possible. Fine adjust the stripes to where you want them (measure) and use a good squeegee to get the air bubbles and fluid out. I used a hair dryer to mold the vinyl around the edges. Hope this helps you.Steven L. Huskins
-----------------------------------
From: "Steven W. Kovich" To: "GARY GRAHAM"
Gary,
I finished painting my 87GT last fall and will be finishing the trim pieces this spring.(it need to be 60 degrees or above to spray this stuff) I used the PPG line of paints and all the products below are PPG. I ended up taking a class at the local collage by me on auto painting. It cost me $150 and you can even bring your project to class to do. On plastic. First, I would start by wet sanding all the parts you plan to paint. Everyone I've talked to recommends wet sanding plastic parts and not using any type of chemical strippers.
Start with 220grit and when you removed the about 60-70% of the old paint then move to 320grit. If the old paint is in good shape. As in not cracking, chipping, breaking down. Then you really down need to remove it all. If this is true you can just rough it up with the sand paper.
Two, The next step will depend on how far you went on the wet sanding. If your old paint was ok and you just used the sandpaper to rough things up you can move right to the K36 primer. But, it you sanded through to the plastic you will need to use the DPX801 plastic sealer to help the K36 primer adhere to the plastic. Before applying the primers clean with DX330 and use a tack rag. I myself removed all the old paint on the trim and used DPX801 first. One light coat of DPX801 then 2-3 coats of K36.
K36 is a primer/surfacer and is not only used prime but is used to build up the surface and sand smooth with a block. This hides imperfection. I put three coats on and then dry sanded the surface smooth before applying the topcoat(color). Plus sanding the K36 before topcoating will always give you a smooth surface. Dry sand the K36 with 400grit. Third, Apply the DBU basecoat until you achieve hiding. This should be 2-3 coats. Before applying the basecoat clean with DX330 and use a tack rag.
Fourth, Clearcoat with DCU2001 clear. 2-3 coats will do it. You can get away with 2 coats if you shoot it on smooth but if you have some orange peal (which most inexperienced painters will) then apply 3 coats and wet sand the clear with 1500grit sandpaper and then buff it to a shine.
See 3M's web site for buffing compounds and polishes at
http://www.mmm.com/market/automotive/
----------------

R-RIM is "Reinforced Reaction Injected Molded Urethane". Doors, panel behind doors, front fenders.

TPO is "Thermo Plastic Olefin". Coupe rocker panels and GT ground effects.

Front and rear bumper covers are made of just plain RIM.

Randy Agee The Fiero Ranch Mechanicsville, VA
FieroZone
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If the tear is located in a high-stress area, namely the upper corners of the facia where the fender/bumper facia/hood meet, then the answer is no. I bought some 3M 2-part facia repair material for just this condition on an '86 with aero-nose. It didn't work. The product is good for non-stress tears, though. I bought it about 3 years ago.
The stuff is called "3M Flexible Parts Repair Material" Kit #1. Part No. 051144-05900. Price: $25.
Unlike a fiberglass repair, this material stays flexible with the facia.
-------------------
I would suggest a product made by SEM. It is SMC Repair Compound, part number 39518. It is two part, you squeeze equal amounts from each tube and mix. Then apply like putty. It works well on everything on the Fiero exterior EXCEPT the RIM front and rear bumper covers. You can shape it and sand it after it cures. Finish with a flexible polyester glazing and filling putty before painting.
Most likely you will only find it in professional auto paint supply stores.
Regular old Bondo will also work only on the SMC panels. But, I personally have had some problems with Bondo on SMC panels in the past.
(NEVER use Bondo on R-RIM or RIM). It is fine for a year or so, then it may crack. I have not had this problem with the SMC Repair Compound.
SEM also has a similar product for the front and rear flexible RIM bumper covers. It also works really good.
There are other brand names of SMC compound that "may" work equally as well.
Randy Agee The Fiero Ranch Mechanicsville, VA
FieroZone
----------------------------
reinforce the repair taper with several layers of fiberglass cloth.
The schematic shows the best practice for repairing a hole in SMC. An SMC patch panel is used as a backing plate and is epoxied to the backside. The repair taper is then filled with alternating layers of 2020 SMC Hardset epoxy and 2043-U Uni-Cloth fiberglass cloth.
---------
If an SMC backing panel can't be used, make a backing patch by alternating layers of epoxy and fiberglass cloth to simulate the SMC's structure.
Reinforce any hole or crack in SMC with an SMC backing panel or backing patch made from alternating layers of fiberglass cloth and adhesive. The repair taper should also be reinforced with layers of fiberglass cloth to simulate the structure of the SMC.
---------------------
mrmaxx@bellsouth.net wrote:
List, I have a semi-circle tear about the diameter of a half dollar on the rear corner of the rear fascia. Is there any way to fix a RIM bumper cover? It is off the car & I want it to be able to flex w/o cracking after I repaint the car. Should I take it to a body shop for fixing or toss it out and get another one? Thanks Jason
--------------------
Easy as pie.
Just buy a RIM repair kit, apply the screen patch and fill as per directions. Inexpensive, easy and looks like new if done properly. NAPA sells one, so does AutoZone. SEM is my prefered brand though.
Randy Agee The Fiero Ranch Mechanicsville, VA
FieroZone
I personally prefer SEM VOC LINE materials available at most auto body supply stores. Small package is No. 39927 Flexible SEM-WELD, you will need your own piece of window screen or glass cloth to use as a backup. You can also use Duramix #4039 Flexible Plastic Repair compound. It comes in a 20cc dispenser.
Randy Agee
FieroZone
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But, there is an "unofficial" shortcut that can reduce your elbow grease on the RIM covers. First step is to sand the finish to scratch it, degloss, and give a stripper something to grip to. Second step is to apply a "MILD" furniture stripper - I like 3M Safe Stripper - comes in a black plastic jug, it is not flamable and the fumes won't kill you.

Put it on thick, do not keep brushing, sort of dab it on. Third step is to immediately completely cover everything with plastic - I use a 99 cent drop cloth - to totally exclude any air...... sort of like putting it in a baggie. It is OK for the plastic to contact the stripper and cover. Let it sit in a cool spot overnight. Do not do this in the sunlight or when it is really hot. The plastic will keep the stripper from drying out and allow it to "work". Since it is a MILD stripper it will take longer and should not soften the RIM.

The next day remove the plastic, reapply some more stripper and about 15 minutes later scrape of all the old finish you can with a plastic body putty applicator. Wash with a stong solution of Tide and warm water and a medimum stiff brush. Wear rubber gloves and goggles! How strong?

Well, I use power and put about a cup of Tide to a gallon of water. If necessary, you can repeat the process all over again once the water is dryed off.

Once you have cut the bulk of the finish off, let it harden again (maybe a day) and then sand the remainder off.

Big problem on RIM covers that causes cracking is too thick of a total paint film. Not a good idea to just paint over the existing finish on the cover. This is why you would not want to just paint over when using the same color. Keep your TOTAL film thickness to 5-6 mills MAX on RIM covers.

Also note the need for a FLEXIBLE primer before applying final finish. 3M makes one in spray cans that is nice for the home painter - saves a lot of money.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use a lacquer primer/surfacer or Bondo on RIM.

Hope this little trick helps you and some others - the baggie, mild stripper, and Tide/water solution are the key elements.
Randy Agee The Fiero Ranch Mechanicsville, VA
FieroZone
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You can use your rotors or pickup another set from the junkyard. If you use junkyard rotors, I would highly recommend the purchase of new bearings. The new bearings come with their bearing race and cost only $22.00 for a complete set.

Take your Fiero rotors and one of the Grand Am rotors to a machine shop. Tell them you need the Fiero rotors machined down so they will just barely fit into the rear of the Grand Am rotor. They have to just barely fit. This is how the Grand Am rotor is aligned to the Fiero hub. I paid $20.00 per rotor.

After the Fiero rotors and calipers are pulled you will need to do some grinding to allow for the wider Grand Am vented rotor. Let me try to explain where you need to grind. If this isn't clear, you will notice where you need to grind as soon as you try to install the Grand Am rotor.

You need to grind down two spots on the caliper-mounting bracket. You grind the side that the bolts stick through, the outside as you look at them on the car. Grind the two spots down until they are approximately 5/8 of an inch thick. I found it much easier to remove the mounting bracket, stick it in a vice and grind it down with a coarse belt on my belt sander. The 5/8-inch thickness will allow proper clearance for the rotor flex, and not interfere with the mounting bracket. This is VERY IMPORTANT! Without the properly amount of space to flex, you may scare the thicker rotors the first time you make a turn.

Once you have collected all the parts had your rotors modified and did the grinding you assemble everything and that's it.

I hope this helps. If part is unclear, feel free to ask any questions. If you are near Huntsville, AL come on over and I will give you a hand.
Rick Huntsville, AL AT6FieroGT@aol.com
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OK everybody, here is the complete story on the Grand-Am brake thing. The 84 thru 87 Fiero's all use the solid thinner rotors with the GM disk brake bolt patterned calipers that are the same as the Grand-Am. The difference between the Grand-Am and the Fiero is that the Grand-Am has the thicker, vented rotors in the front but they used drums in the rear back in the 84 thru 87 year models. So, if you wish to upgrade your 84 Thru 87 Fiero brakes to the vented design, here is what you do:

1. Remove the rear, non-vented rotor hats from your Fiero, slip the vented Grand-Am rotor hats on the hubs and bolt up the Grand-Am calipers. For the rear this is a direct, no modification required ordeal. The only catch is that you will lose your e-brake do to the fact that you are essentially using front wheel calipers on the rear and they don't have any provision for the e-brake.

2. For the front however it gets tricky. Since the Fiero uses the same type of front end set-up as the Chevette, that is that it uses rotor-hubs with bearings vise rotor hats that just slip onto the hubs, you must modify the existing Fiero rotor hubs to accept the Grand-Am rotor hats. To do this you must take your Fiero front rotor hubs and have them machined down so that all that is left is the bearing hub and the lug bolts. The entire rotor assembly must be machined off. This will allow the Grand-Am rotor hat to slip onto the hub much like the 88 Fiero works. But there's more. The Grand-am/Fiero caliper mounting pad must be slightly machined down to properly align the caliper to the rotor.

3. To answer the question of, why don't we all just bolt the 88 Fiero brakes onto the 84 thru 87 Fiero? The answer is you can't, the 88 uses a totally different caliper and bolt design which means that you would have to change out the "A" arms with it which is near impossible due to the fact that they bolt on at totally different locations than the 84 thru 87 Fiero's suspension.

4. The Grand-am conversion is a worth while modification if you are very hard on your brakes or autocross it regularly. My personal advise would be to just convert the front brakes and leave the rears solid thereby retaining the e-brake. Many hi-perf vehicles that are much heavier than the Fiero use the vented in front/solid in back design and it works great for them, should work just fine for us. I have pushed my brakes past there limits once or twice, but I was really doing things that I shouldn't have been doing, i.e. 137 mph on the way to Vegas trying to keep close to a 98 vette, he walked away from me at will by the way.

Hope this helps all out there that have been thinking about this conversion.
Take care. PDQFiero@aol.com
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Bought the parts from Advanced Auto and did all the work my self. Got two sets of from calipers for a 91 berreta and 4 rotors from 91 berreta.
91 berreta has same brakes as a 89 GrandAm.
take off from rotors like the haynes manual says.
get the rotors machined down to fit under the berreta rotors.
put back in reverse order and add the rotors over ground down old-front rotors changed the master cylinder to a 94 4x4 full size blazer bleed the brakes.
Nothing was hard...just turning a wrench.
look at the webpage
FieroZone
for real good details On that web page they say use longer studs... one car i did, one car i did not. not really needed.

------------------or Ed William's Page----------------

GrandAm Brakes

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The back end is the same as most from that GM era. The front is different. I recently took an alternator from an 87 4 cylinder Fiero, took off the pulley and front housing and used the one from a defunct 88 alternator in it's place. Works just fine and saved $100. Go looking again, but this time think about swaping the front from yours to another one.
Randy Agee
FieroZone
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Oliver, Here is the information you are looking for and then some.
The GM part # you gave me 10463397 is the correct replacement GM # which crosses to a Delco 321-1015.
The reason the dealer couldn't help you is I had to get the OE number and get the part #'s that way. I got you all the part numbers for all the replacement parts available.
I am not familiar with were you live, but if you have an auto parts store that sells A/C Delco it would be cheeper to go that way. OK here is your information.
The original part # for the Alternator on your car is GM # 1105604.
The Rotor Assembly GM # 10475405 A/C Delco # D3189
Voltage Regulator GM # 1116423 A/C Delco # D680
Brush Package GM # 1984462 A/C Delco # D766
Diode Trio GM # 1984459 A/C Delco # D3922
Rectifier Bridge GM # 1987061 A/C Delco # D3986
Rear Bearing GM # 9441879 A/C Delco # MJN711
Front Bearing GM # 908419 A/C Delco # Z99503-6
barneerubl@aol.com
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1. Chock the front wheels.
2. Take one bolt (15mm bolt, 15mm nut) completely out of the dogbone.
3. Take the rubber intake hose off at one side(5/16 nut driver on filter side).
4. If the two vacuum hoses from the engine to the trunk wall look short then remove one side of them also.
5. Raise the rear end by jacking up on the rear of the engine cradle as high as your floor jack will lift it.
6. See that the wheel chocks are still firmly against the front tires.
7. Place jack stands at the lifting pads located on the rear of the chassis forward of the front engine cradle mounts.
8. Take out the two rear cradle bolts (3/4")(use a 1/2" drive, long extension, and shallow socket).
9. Slowly lower the floor jack until the struts are fully extended then raise the cradle an inch or so to relieve the weight of the drivetrain from the struts.
10. Use a third jack stand to support the engine cradle.
11. Do whatever your heart desires from above or below the engine compartment;
this way will give new meaning to fixing Fieros to those who never tried it.
Good luck and don't hurt yourself or your Fiero. (BE CAREFUL)
Chris J. Vasek CJV88_PBODY@email.msn.com
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1) The button in the turn signal stalk no longer works. Easy way to check is to plug a known good one into where the old one plugs up, then go for a drive. If your cruise works, you know you need to replace the old stalk.
2) The clutch pedal "switch" is out of adjustment. There is a little white pedal switch mounted above the clutch pedal under the dash. Adjust it by pushing the clutch pedal all the way down, then push the switch as far towards the pedal as it can go. You should hear little "clicks" as it moves. Then, pull the pedal as far towards you as possible. It should now be adjusted. You might have to fiddle around with it a little though. Just make sure that the little "plunger" is all the way in. Once you get in there and see what I'm talking about, this will all make a lot more sense.
Good luck. Guy McMickle
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If it is a stick you may want to look under the dash on the driver's side and look at the clutch pedal. There is a tiny little switch that the clutch touches when it is out. When you press the clutch pedal down the switch deactivates the cruise. When I got my car the person I bought it from told me the cruise didn't work and he didn't know why. This switch screws on to adjust properly. You may just need to unscrew it a little so that it will make contact with the clutch pedal. That was all that was wrong with mine. If you have an auto look at the brake pedal for the same thing. Don't really know that much about the automatics though.
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Blinker Stalk---new one ---wires
You don't have to remove the steering wheel, find and unplug the connector from under the dash, you will note that there is a little hole in the connector on the control side...it's there so you can insert some mechanics wire (or similar strong wire) and bend the end over and give it a twist. Pull the stock out and pull the wire up through the steering column and out through the top, the last bit may be a bit tough because of a 90 degree bend but it does come out (might have to twist it a bit (the wire)). Remove the mechaincs wire from the old connector (which should be at this point out the top of the column) and put the new connector on and then pull the mechanics wire back down (from the bottom) and pull the wire though.
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If you were simply replacing the lever, you could have attached a piece of mechanic's wire to the tiny hole in the end of the cruise wire, which would snake it's way up the column when you removed the old lever. Then you would simply remove the old cruise wire, attach the new ond pull the mechanic's wire back through the column and out with wire attached - all without removing the column from the car.
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The first thing you need to look at/inspect is the turn signal stalk itself. 95% of cruise control problems can be attributed to broken wires in the stalk. What you need to do is remove the stalk from the column and inspect the wires around where they attach to the stalk....they usually break right at that junction or within a few inches of the stalk (rubbed through). To remove the stalk just grip it tight and pull straight out...it may take some force, but it will come out.

If the wires check out OK, then I'd look at the "coffee can" canister for rust holes or the little white plastic switch attached to the pedals. Sometimes they get out of adjustment or break causing the cruise not to work.

I'm not saying it never happens, but rarely does anything major go wrong with the "guts" of the cruise system, i.e. the pump thing or electrical stuff (other than the stalk wires).
Mike Valentine Brighton, CO
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Pull the connector from the oil pressure sender. If the fuel pump stops the oil pressure sender is defective and you'll need to replace it. If this test does not turn off the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump relay which is located on the firewall behind the air filter. You'll need to remove the air filter to get at the relay.. Of the two relays located there, the fuel pump relay is the one on the extream right. The part number for the fuel pump relay is Filko RL37 and they are commonly available at most auto stores. You may wish to note that the fuel pump and A/C relays are identical Problem fixed.
Hope this helps.
Regards, Dennis LaGrua
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Drained my gas tank tonite. 2 year old gas had to go before I start it up. I remember reading that you can run the fuel pump by jumping the correct ALDL pins. I looked in my Helm and found that if you put power to one pin it runs the fuel pump. It is the only pin on the top row that has a wire to it. Tan/white. Pin G. I ran a jumper from the lighter hot wire to that pin and the pump ran. I had disconected the line to the fuel filter. Took just a few minutes to empty the tank. About 8-9 gallons.
Rodney Dickman 1988 Mera will run after 2 years of sitting!!!
RodneyDickman.com
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Fuel pressure under any load should be 40.5 psi to 47 psi, and pressure at idle should be 3-10 psi less.
If fuel pressure is too low, pinch off the return fuel line. If the fuel pressure goes up, your problem is the regulator. If it doesn't change, the problem is the fuel pump.
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Gas tank is full. Fuse for fuel pump is good. Fuel pump???? or am I missing something???
I think you're missing something. Looking at the motor, on the right side of the red intake plenum, where the fuel lines meet the fuel block, there is a schrader valve. Remove the cap and press the valve with a screwdriver. Make sure to put a rag around the valve to keep the gas off of the engine's paint, and the engine itself if the engine is hot. Also, don't let it squirt in your eyes. :) If you get a "fuel gusher" about 6 inches high (or better), then fuel is getting to the injector rail. Look towards spark. My Formulas have eaten the pickup coil more times that I can count! Measure the coil (in the distributor) with a digital ohm meter for an open, or short to ground. Either is bad. (Measure the open across both wires. If the gauge doesn't move, the coil is open. (Or you're on the wrong meter setting ... ) Measure one wire at a time, with the other meter lead to the distributor housing to check for shorts) I forget what the exact Ohm reading should be, so I cannot tell you the "exact" reading.
Eric '88 Yellow Formula '86 Pro-street GT
BoomTastic.Com
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Hey Dennis, I'll bet your starting problem is your fuel pump relay, right behind your air filter bolted to the firewall. Your car will run even if the thing fails, because the backup system for the fuel pump is wired through your oil pressure switch.

You'll have to spin your motor over and over until the oil pressure switch says 'OK'. Then you'll get fuel. And when you shut your engine off, usually there's enough pressure in the system, to get it going again when you re-crank. But if it doesn't fire immediately, you have to wait for the oil pressure switch.

These relays do fail! On one of mine, I would turn my key to 'on' and even hear the relay click, but the contacts were worn out, and it never fired off the pump. When you turn your key to the 'on' position, the pump should run for about 2 sec. to prime the motor.

Try this. If your car has a/c, there will be two relays behind the air filter. Switch relays. You won't even need to unbolt them. It's a super easy test, (unless your a/c relay is bad, too!).
Joel 19
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MSD easy connect GM dual connector coil harness P/N 8876 $24 (this harness will simplify installation & allow a change back to stock a minute plug in job)

MSD 6A Capacitive Discharge Multi-spark ignition box $129.95

MSD Superconductor 8.5 MM Spiral Copper ignition wire set P/N 31189 $65

MSD Copper spiral wire has a resistance of only 50 ohms per foot. In comparison, regular nickel spiral wire like Accel, has a resistance of 250 ohms per foot. Still good but not optimum like the MSD superconductor wires. The wire set comes with the proper distributor terminal ends and boots for the Fiero distributor and since it is an 8 cyl. set enough wire is provided for a cutting mistake or two.(Note that this is a universal cut to fit wire set but the end result is a set of wires that fit better than any finished set.) It took me about 1 1/2 hours to cut and install the set.

For plugs I use AC CR42TS (" C " is for copper electrode) R42TS also work OK. Gap is .045". With this $260 ignition system I get a super hot ignition output. My turbo engine with10 lbs boost works perfectly. I have not experienced any miss or shortfall in ignition performance so far...and... I do stand on it Dennis LaGrua Neshanic, NJ

TRI-STATE FIERO CLUB Custom FIERO Turbocharging website at:
http://members.xoom.com/dlagrua/turbo.htm
- - Beautiful 10 pc. Fiero Wood Dash kits for $89.95

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-------------- AC-Delco P/N 16139389 (D1992) ignition modules

-------------- AcceL 8.8 wires Part # 8879
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Jay, if it won't start with a "jolt" of starting fluid (not good to use),then it probably has no spark.

When it stops the next time, immeadiately pull the coil wire off the coil, spin the engine and check for spark running down the tower.

If none, most likely cause is module. But, the coil, pick-up coil, pigtail between, and ECM are all heat sensitive.

Ed Parks The Fiero Factory
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The Fiero engine compartment is much hotter than on other GM cars. This is a prime reason why only genuine AC-Delco Ignition Modules will last long term on a Fiero. Excessive heat can also kill a coil. While I have used other than GM coils with success they have been of the high performance variety like MSD, Crane and Accel. I would try replacing the coil with one of the high performance ignition coils and see if that makes a difference. Also be sure to check that the heat shield is in place on the left side of the coil and that the engine compartment cooling fan is working. Switch your A/C on and see if air comes out of the tubes near the alternator and the coil. Also, are your wires in good condition?? Wires, especially the carbon core type that GM used on the Fiero do deteriorate. High wire resistance will stress the coil as it has to work much harder to throw a spark. Look at your engine compartment in complete darkness. ( I do this check regularly) Do you see any sparks? If so your wires are the problem and need replacement. I would recommend 8.5 or 8.8mm spiral core suppression type ignition wire. Hope these suggestions help. -- Dennis LaGrua Neshanic, NJ

Just replace your two small bulbs for larger ones. The new bulbs are part number 912. pontiac sign. see OSGfiero_osg

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I used #906 lamps in place of the originals. They are larger but fit the sockets. I have had them in place for about a year and they have not damaged the sockets
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As a matter of fact, let me pull out my 'GE Lighting Miniature & Sealed Beam Lamp Catalog'...
The 921 is a T5 wedge base lamp. The 'T5' signifies a tubing diameter of 5/8" (5 X 1/8"). It runs on 12.8 volts and consumes 1.40 amps (WOW!). It delivers approximately 21 mean spherical candlepower (don't worry about this, just remember the higher the number, the brighter the lamp output) and is rated for 500 hours of operation. So, the total wattage for four lamps is over 70W, which is more than a high beam filament! Now I'm starting to worry about my ignition switch.

The standard 194 lamp is a T3-1/4 (about .40" dia.), consumes .27A @ 14V, delivers 2 mean spherical candlepower (MSC) and should last 2500 hours. The 168 is also a T3-1/4 lamp, consumes .35A @ 14V, delivers 3 MSC and has a life rating of 1500 hours.

To make the emblem brighter, you need to match the wedge base, operating volts, and increase the MSC. Here are some other T5 suggestions:

Lamp Volts Amps MSC Life (hours)

904 13.5 0.69 4 5000
906 13. 0.69 6 1000
912 12.8 1.00 12 1000
916 13.5 0.54 2 10000 (not brighter, but will last forever)
917 12.8 1.20 10 1200
918 12.8 0.56 6.5 500
923 12.8 0.91 12.5 500 (a good compromise?)

There are others, but the life or MSC is less than the standard lamp. The 912, 917 and 923 might be good choices because they increase the light output considerably, and don't run as hot as the 921. With this information, you can make a choice that best fits your needs.
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V6 firing order-- Couldn't be easier. 1 2 3 4 5 6
6 4 2
@
5 3 1
Facing the car from the rear 1 is the far right cylinder closest to the tail lights. To its left in the middle is 3, on the left is 5.
The right front of the engine (closest to the headlights) is 2, in the middle is 4, on the left is 6.
------------------- mfg number--
4 Cylinder -
stamped opposite the number 3 cylinder, on the right side of the case, on the left side of the pad, as close to the rear as possible
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6 Cylinder -
stamped on crankcase, on right hand side of engine, to rear of distributor
-------------- 4cyl---timing gear -------
Timing Gear
No harm will come to the engine when it does strip, you will just come to a stop. Since it is an onerous and expensive job, do not suggest that it be considered routine maintenence.
Melling part # 2524 is an alloy replacement gear, when the time comes.
Ed Parks The Fiero Factory
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if you remove the front cradle bolts then you must remove the rears also. don't take that approach. this was not the most enjoyable task I had to perform on the 86 but I got it done with excellent results. below is basically the best approach I found by the time I finally got everything visible and within reach.
I lower the cradle from the rear by removing ONE side of the air intake tube, Dog Bone, and the two vacuum hoses attached to the trunk wall next to the PCV. remove the decklid also. you must already have the car supported by jack stands forward of the engine cradle and a floor jack(or similar device) under the rear of the cradle prior to removing the rear cradle bolts.
I welded mine on the 86 SE as much as I could get to before detaching it from the head to ensure the bolt holes matched when finished (high heat flexing) you also may have to remove, or atleast loosen, the A/C bracket in order to fully extract one or more exhaust bolts.
Chris 86 SE 88 GT 97 Sierra
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valve cover gaskets v6 rubber only!!
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The 4 cylinder valve cover gasket from GM is the best one to use. It has a piece of metal sandwiched in the gasket, and has an adhesive on one side.
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Dogbone---
If there is a black plastic filler piece, remove it and you will find a 15mm nut that you'll need to put a wrench on. That will get the nut off, and the bolt - while turning it - will slide out.
A trick to install the dog bone back in is to remove the bolt that holds the multi-piece bracket together on the engine side. It runs from from to back, pointing towards the car. (The bracket is actually where the end of the dogbone bolts to)
Take that bolt out and you will have about an extra inch or two, which is plenty and sure beats pulling on the engine and trying to force the bolt back in.
Then once you get things loosely put together, start tightening everything evenly and it will go back together smoothly.
Eric '88 Yellow Formula '86 Pro-street GT BoomTastic.Com
-- Take off the black plastic triangle cover, to the right of the dogbone, on the strut tower. With this off, you can access the nut.
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Did a bit more research on the head bolts for the 60* V6 and it has confirmed what I had suspected.
The 60* V6 engine ( 2.8L, 3. 1L and 3.4L )uses what they call, "stretch" head bolts, meaning that after you torque them to specifications they elongate a bit.
These headbolts were designed by GM for one time only use and should not be re-used.
While you may get away with using them over again, the head bolts strength decreases the second time that they are torqued. If you add some engine mods and up your power, the chances of engine failure will increase dramatically when reusing the head bolts.
The $36 price for a new set of Fel-Pro headbolts appears like a good investment for an optimum rebuild job. In my opinion it's rather cheap insurance to pay for holding the engine together.
Dennis LaGrua Neshanic, NJ
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